PERMANENT SERVICE
GENERAL ANALYSIS
The “permanent wave service” has gained enough market share to produce a substantial amount of sales in the hair care sector.
TECHNOLOGICAL PROGRESS
After extensive, pain-staking research, BES permanents have developed two important features: a pleasant scent, obtained by using new, precious essences, and the chance to increase application frequency, thanks to the presence of innovative substances that protect and recondition the hair’s structure.
ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF THE PERMANENT WAVE
When you want hair to take on a special form (wave) it needs to undergo a certain amount of twisting which impacts the keratinic fibres. Their chemicalphysical structure must be modified in some manner to allow the hair to take on the new form. However, because of the way they are, they tend to revert back to their original nature.To maintain these results, specific agents need to be used to break up or interrupt these bonds without harming the structure of the hair, and then reconstruct it in a complete, lasting manner.
THE IMPORTANCE OF DISULFIDE BONDS
Since there are a certain percentage of disulfide bonds that can be interrupted or broken apart and then reconstructed with the help of specific reactive agents, these bonds can be worked on in a fairly safe manner so produce a lasting permanent wave.
THE REACTION FUNCTION OF THE PERMANENTS
Permanents use a buffer solution to keep the pH level steady during the process. An undesired variation could cause the reaction underway to slow down or even stop altogether, compromising the final results.The active ingredient essential to a permanent wave is a special thioglycolic acid in the form of salt that reduces the disulfide bonds of the cystine without harming the structure of the hair, so it can be styled the way the hairdresser wants.
THE OXIDIZING ROLE OF THE NEUTRALIZER
To make sure the style lasts, it is necessary to apply a neutralizer that performs an oxidizing reaction to fix the new arrangement of disulfide bonds in the right position, i.e. in a linear fashion, without any overlap, as it is with natural, untreated hair.
PERM SOLUTION
ACTION: a permanent that ensures a pronounced, perky curl.
ACTIVE INGREDIENT: CRODASONE CYSTINE.
SIPERM is a traditional type of perm, formulated on an innovative concept. To get excellent results, the final percentage of disulfide bonds needs to be 30%. Less than 30% will not produce a curl. More than 30% breaks down the keratin which takes the bounce out of the hair. These levels are determined by the percentage of the reducing agent, the pH level of the solution and the amount of time the solution is in place. Once the disulfide bonds (S-S) in the hair have been broken down, this product’s active mechanism produces two opposite forces. One is the weakened disulfide bonds (SS), and the other, which in addition to the weakened disulfide bonds (S-S), also contains traces of sulphur atoms. The former needs to prevail. This mechanism is synergised by the presence of CRODASONE CYSTINE, a copolymer made up of a cystine (an amino acid) and crodasone (silicone). The cystine, having a strong affinity with the molecular structure of the hair, is able to penetrate the cuticle and improve the duration and elasticity of the curl obtained, whereas the Crodasone works to condition the structure of the hair, so it is easy to comb, supple and shiny.
SIFIX NEUTRALIZER
ACTION: a multi compatible neutralizer, ideal to be used with SIPERM and other perm solutions.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: TETRASODIUM EDTA INORGANIC ACID ALKYL AMIDO PROPYL BETAINE
SIFIX is a foamy, instant neutralizer. Thanks to its capturing agents (TETRASODIUM EDTA) and pH regulators (INORGANIC ACID), it is not harsh on hair, nor does it alter hair colour or dry hair out. The formula also contains an ALKYL AMIDO PROPYL BETAINE which, thanks to its strong affinity with the scalp and hair, gets hair silky and soft. SIFIX is also a strong softener and stabiliser. SIPERM and SIFIX smell quite nice. A fresh top note melds into an aromatic floral accent on a woodsy amber base.
MOVIEW WAVING SOLUTION
ACTION: permanent solution for an even, natural-looking wave, to get the line and body desired.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: HYDROLYZED SILK
The MOVIE permanent formula enables the hairdresser to apply a wave and be sure of the final results, yet fully protect hair fibre. This is why the formula has been enriched with HYDROLYZED SILK, an extract taken from the silkworm cocoon. Hydrolyzed silk is mostly made up of two proteins secreted from separate glands of the silkworm: Sericin (20-30%), Fibroin ( 70-80%). Sericin is rich in polar amino acids and enjoys an amorphous structure that works to coat and bind the hair fibre to help protect the disulfide bonds so the wave is extremely natural-looking. Instead fibroin is known for its ability to keep the keratin content in balance.
MOVIE WAVE NEUTRALIZER
ACTION: MOVIE NEUTRALIZER works to consolidate the disulfide bonds in the geometric curve produced by the hairdresser to set the wave firmly in place.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: AMODIMETHICONE/TRIDECETH-12 This formula contains a CATIONIC EMULSION (AMODIMETHICONE + TRIDECETH-12) with a high affinity towards the structure of the hair, where the protective action gets hair silky and soft.
Scent: fresh top note with an aromatic floral accent on a woodsy amber base.
SPECIFIC WAVE
ACTION: a permanent which ensures a uniform wave in hair where the degree of porosity differs.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: PANTHENOL (Pro-vitamin B5). HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN.
SPECIFIC WAVE permanent wave solution offers the perfect balance between fashion and the desired outcome, while being extremely careful with the structure of the hair. The end result is hair that is shiny, full of body, and waves and curls that are bouncy without being fragile or dry, thanks to the presence of PANTHENOL (Pro-vitamin B5) and HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN. PANTHENOL (Pro-vitamin B5) thanks to its protein content, gives hair tone and bounce. The hydrolyzed wheat proteins linked to a silicone chain (wheat silicone) form a chemical bond, intertwining around the scales of the cuticle, so that the disulfide bonds take their desired position, to give hair shine, body and bounce.
EQUILIBRAT
pre-perm wash. It is important to wash the scalp and hair before applying a permanent. This becomes even more essential and delicate when a permanent is to be applied to highlighted hair. Besides a gentle cleansing, EQUILIBRAT pre-perm wash provides an effective eudermic, protective action on skin and removes impurities from the hair so it is more receptive to the EQUALWAVE MECHES emulsion.
EQUALWAVE MECHES
works to offset the porosity to ensure a uniform action on structurally different hair, with or without highlights, while also safeguarding hair. It needs to be applied before the SPECIFIC WAVE MECHES wave solution.
SPECIFIC WAVE MECHES
is a wave solution specially formulated for heavily highlighted hair in need of a permanent. Thanks to the presence of a copolymer protein made from wheat silicone, it not only helps relax the disulfide bonds, but also ensures the scales of the hair stay closed, strong and moisturised, when they come into contact with this copolymer.
SPECIFIC WAVE NEUTRALIZER:
a neutraliser specially designed to complement and work in synergy to enhance the final, technical outcome of the permanent as it works to fully reconstruct the disulfide bonds. It also eliminates any trace of the reducing agent, reintegrating the original structure of the hair after having been treated with EQUALWAVE, to even out the different degrees of porosity.
SI – STRAIGHT STRAIGHTENING CREAM
The BES Si-Straight kit consists of 3 products
- PHASE 1 (straightening cream)
- PHASE 2 (neutralizer)
- PHASE 3 (acid lotion)
To treat the different types of hair, Bes Si-Straight comes in two versions:
SI-STRAIGHT FORCE STRONG
SI-STRAIGHT FORCE MEDIUM
It is a process that makes wavy (thin and treated), curly and frizzy hair smooth and straight, different from its natural form. Si-Straight works in three phases: reduce, oxidise and compensate. The first phase, the reduction phase, consists of modifying the disulfide bonds of the cysteine by a soft and supple emulsion : Si- Straight cream. In addition to its main functions, it plays an essential role ensuring the hair’s hydro-lipid level remains balanced. The product is enriched by an active ingredient called “CASHEMERE” and is made from keratin protein. In the second, oxidising phase of the Si-Straight Neutralizer, the disulfide bonds of the cysteine form a linear position without any overlap, which is important so hair does not assume its natural position, but instead is straight. In the third phase, to offset the alkaline action of the straightening process, it is necessary to apply the Si-Straight TREATMENT LOTION, a pH acid (pH 2.5) which allows hair cuticles to close quickly. It eliminates any trace of alkaline lingering on the scalp and on hair after the straightening procedure, making hair supple and soft, as if it had never been treated.
